![]() ![]() Well there's no way it was going to sound worse than the stock setup! The Polk db's have a definite "break-in" period of a few hours. The crossovers for the front speakers I just secured under the dash on either side of the car (more on this later). I did not use the factory speaker wiring, so I ran some new 14 gauge wire through the door boots and to the Alpine amp. Plus, the Scosche brackets would have required cutting away some of the inside of the factory door grill. Using the Polk brackets, the speaker magnets cleared the windows when rolled down, so no worries. The Scosche brackets made the speakers stick out further than was necessary. Instead I used the brackets that came with the Polk speakers and drilled a few new holes in the doors to mount them. I had ordered some Scosche brackets to mount the speakers but ended up not using them. I also stuck some Dynamat on some of the flat plastic parts of the inside of the door panels just to give the doors an overall more solid feel. I surrounded the speaker openings with Dynamat and added some on the outer door metal behind where the speakers are mounted. I didn't want to bother with removing the weather barrier, so I just cut small pieces and placed them wherever I could on the inner door metal. While I had the doors apart, I went ahead and layed down some Dynamat. ![]() The door panels came off fairly easily.same as any other Honda. LX models have an empty space on the dash where the tweeters would go if there were any, so I naturally used this dash location to install the component tweeters. For grounds, I used a seat bolt for the Alpine amp & LC6i and for the sub I used a bolt holding the bracket under the rear seat. I also used the distribution block to get power for the LC6i. And all of the sub's power and signal connections disconnect quickly and easily in case I need to fold down/up the seat. The sub fits perfectly in an upward firing position under the rear seat.slid all the way back to the floor bracket that the bottom of the rear seat snaps into when unfolded. Ended the main power with a small distribution block which is also located under the driver's seat.įrom this distribution block I'm running 8 gauge power to the Alpine amp (also under the driver's seat) and to the JL Powered Sub. In this spot there's some factory wiring going through a HUGE grommet, so I just poked a little hole and pushed the 4 gauge through no problem. Ran my main power through the firewall almost right behind the steering wheel. Used a T-Spec 4 gauge dual amp kit ($100 on Amazon). The the amplifier install was pretty straightforward. I ran the 9-wire down the dash and through the center column to the LC6i which is under the driver's seat, secured with velcro. With the head unit removed I used a 9-wire to tap into the speaker outputs and ignition turn on for the LC6i. You can just loosen it and lift off the head unit. DO NOT unscrew this bottom screw all the way. The third screw is at the bottom of the unit and chances are you'll need an extension to get to it. Use the appropriate 8mm (I think) socket. Do not attempt to unscrew these with a phillips driver. Once that's out, the head unit is held in place with three screws. I recommend starting under the glove box. Starting with the dash, the soft trim surrounding the head unit and extending across the passenger side pulls out in one piece fairly easily. Especially if I want to retain these functions. I consider the factory head unit "nothing special" but the fact that it's integrated with the rear camera, steering wheel audio and bluetooth controls, and USB/line-in underneath makes an aftermarket head unit install potentially troublesome. My overall goal for this project was to substantially improve the audio quality while keeping the factory head unit. JL Audio ACP108LG Microsub+ 8" Powered Subwoofer - $345 from PacificStereo after 20% off coupon Polk db651 Coaxial Rear Speakers - $68 on Amazon ![]() Polk db6501 Component Front Speakers - $115 on Amazon However, I'm happy to take pictures upon request of the finished work, although as you read on, there's not really much to "see".ĪudioControl LC6i line output converter - $109 on AmazonĪlpine MRV-F300 Class D 4/3/2 Channel Amplifier 50W x 4 or 150W x 2 4Ω - $150 on Amazon I get tunnel vision when I'm working on a project and never think to stop and document things. ![]() Sorry in advance for the lack of pictures. Previously I'd posted in another thread that I'd be adding some new stereo components to my LX and now that it's finished just thought I'd share the details of my installation and the outcome for those who are interested. ![]()
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